GLOBAL GOURMET GUIDE
 WANT TO GET A TASTE OF THE WORLD’S MOST DELECTABLE CITIES? PACK YOUR APPETITE AS RENOWNED FOODIES AND WRITER NICOLE ALPER GUIDE YOU THROUGH SIX CULINARY CAPITALS.
It’s hard to imagine today’s world being any more consumed by food. Everyone from CEOs to taxi drivers tunes in to the Food Network. Few venture to a new city without first consulting the local chowhound.com posting. And now Michelin, that trusted European source for all things gourmet, is penning its picks in such places as the United States and Asia. Here, we give you insider tips from notable experts and help you digest six of the most delectable culinary capitals--Rome, New York City, Paris, Tokyo, London and Madrid.
Rome
“Rome is one of the most dynamic eating cities in Italy,” says MICHAEL WHITE, executive chef/partner at New York City’s Italian restaurants Alto (altorestaurant.com), Convivio (convivionyc.com), and Marea (marea-nyc.com). “It is a great city, not only for Roman food, but for all the different cuisines around Italy. If you don’t have time to travel extensively throughout the country, you can get a terrific representation of the Italian map while in Rome. Just stay away from tourist sites and it’s virtually impossible to have a bad meal.”
 DRINK
Spend a leisurely afternoon nursing a coffee at CAFÉ SANT’EUSTACHIO (santeustachioilcaffe.it), “and make sure to ask for it with sugar,” advises White. “When they brew the hot espresso and whip it with sugar it creates a kind of delicious meringue which they spoon on top.” Sip chianti at CUL DE SAC wine bar near the Piazza Sant’Eustachio, between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. “and I love FORNO MARCO ROSCIOLI and AMBASCIATA D’ABRUZZO” (ambasciatadiabruzzo.com), says White.
SHOP
Soak up some local flavor by wandering the fish and cured-meat stalls of TESTACCIO market. Want to bring home a few bottles of your favorite vino? TRIMANI (trimani.com) is Rome’s oldest (1821) family-owned wine shop. Wander THE COVERED MARKET to survey a rainbow of fresh produce, pasta, and bread (perfect for a picnic). For a lively flower and food market, head to CAMPO DEI FIORI, near the Piazza Navona (at night it turns into a festive spot to have a drink).
EAT
“HOSTERIA DEL PESCE (hosteriadelpesce.net) has some of the best fish in Rome,” says White. For traditional Roman food he suggests ANTICOARCO (www.anticoarco.it), with a warm stone and brick-wall ambience. another of White’s favorites: DA OIO A CASA MIA (011-39-06-578-2680), “where you can get spleen and all kinds of cool stuff.” and for dessert, the gelato at IL GELATO DI SAN CRISPINO (ilgelatodisancrispino.it) near the Trevi fountain is not to be missed.
VENTURE OUT
For a great trip right outside the city, White suggests a visit to ANTONELLO COLONNA (www.antonellocolonna.it), a restaurant in labico, a tiny town that is known for its traditional Roman food. The eatery is overseen by chef Colonna, the Italian food ambassador who once cooked for Queen Elizabeth II.
New York City
 It’s considered the culinary epicenter of the world, the place where many a chef dreams of opening -- and sustaining -- a restaurant. Says chef DANIEL BOULUD, whose classic French fine-dining restaurant Daniel (danielnyc.com) recently underwent an elegant face-lift and continues to top the most-desired reservations list, “New York brings together the three essential ingredients of any top food city: the very best ingredients from local farms and purveyors, and access to incredible products from every corner of the globe; a talented, well-trained, and ambitious international community of food professionals; and a general public that is absolutely passionate about all things food-related.”
EAT
Any trip to Manhattan will cross over international taste lines. for Italian, Boulud suggests the rustic LOCANDA VERDE in the Greenwich Hotel in Tribeca (greenwichhotelny.com). “Have any of chef Andrew Carmellini’s pastas,” advises Boulud, “especially his ‘grandmother’s ravioli.’ and the fresh ricotta appetizer is a must.” also on Boulud’s dining list: CORTON (cortonnyc.com), the new venture between famed NYC restaurateur Drew Nieporent and chef Paul Liebrandt. “They’ve transformed the old Montrachet into something truly wonderful,” says Boulud. “The room has an inviting glow and Paul’s food is just edgy enough to keep you guessing, but not so edgy that you don’t want more.”
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Manhattan and cocktailing are practically synonymous, and often accompanied by major celebrity spotting. a recent NYC trend: below-restaurant, insider hot spots, such as the BIRCH ROOM, located beneath Butter (butter restaurant .com) , and TENJUNE (tenjunenyc.com), below the luxury steakhouse STK. another über-exclusive lounge: 1OAK in Chelsea (1oaknyc. com), which sports ostrich-leather banquettes and features performances by John legend and Wyclef Jean. a hard-to-find (but easier to access) watering hole is the sultry APOTHÉKE (apothekebar.com), which is located on a back street in Chinatown. Warns Boulud: “I doubt they’ll ever have an official sign outside, so you have to really look for the entrance.”
SHOP
For culinary goods, head to CHELSEA MARKET (chelseamarket.com), the location of the food Network and the Bowery Kitchen Supply, as well as such restaurant s as BUDDHAKAN (buddhakannyc.com) and Morimoto (morimotonyc.com). Want to shop like a local? On Monday, Wednesday, Friday, or Saturday, wander the GREENMARKET at Union Square, where farmers from as far away as Vermont sell fresh produce and flowers.
VENTURE OUT
Any New Yorker worth his Manhattan driver’s license knows that over the last several years Brooklyn has become the new face of New York, while still hanging tight to its old-world charm. Many are touting “New Brooklyn Cuisine” (NBC) as the next big thing: a movement that melds Manhattan- trained culinary sophistication with a passion for the artisanal and sustainable. “So many Brooklyn restaurants have that homey, old-school feel Manhattan used to have,” says Butter’s head chef Alex Guarnaschelli. Two she loves: SWEETWATER RESTAURANT (sweetwaterny.com), with a phenomenal brunch, and THE GENERAL GREENE (718-222-1510), whose co-owner spent time as a pastry chef at Daniel.
Paris
 The capital of a country Julia Child once said “considers eating a national sport,” Paris is a world stage for the most passionate culinary artists. “Food is part of the landscape in Paris,” says ROSA JACKSON, whose company Edible Paris (edible-paris.com) narrows down the infinite options with customized food itineraries. “Here, it’s as natural to start the day with a crusty baguette slathered with Normandy butter as it is to breathe,” says Jackson.
EAT
Every haute-leaning taste bud can be sated at the hands of master chefs whose restaurants line the streets of swank Parisian neighborhoods. GUY SAVOY flirts with modern interpretations at his eponymous restaurant on Rue Troyon (guysavoy.com), while ALAIN DUCASSE’s cuisine at the Plaza Athénée (alainducasse.com) dazzles under the light of 10,000 illuminated crystal pendants. “But bistros are the best places to get a feel for Paris and its food,” insists Jackson. Three of her favorites: LE TROQUET (letroquet.ca), for modern bistro cooking; CHEZ DUMONET-JOSEPHINE (011-33-1- 45-48-52-40), with moleskin banquettes and half portions allowing you to graze; and RACINES (011-33-1-43-26-03-86), for wines from small producers served with simple but delicious fare.
SHOP
Foodies can treasure hunt at DEHILLERIN (e-dehillerin.fr), a quirky warehouse with stockpiles of culinary tools (hint: Don’t miss the basement with Le Creuset pots). Those with a sweet tooth should beeline for PATRICK ROGER CHOCOLATIER (patrickroger.com) along Boulevard St-Germain or PIERRE HERMÉ’s shop on Rue de Bonaparte (www.pierreherme.com) to snatch up a box of jewel-colored macarons. One of Jackson’s favorite haunts is the open-air food market MARCHÉ SAXE-BRETEUIL, held on Thursday and Saturday mornings.
VENTURE OUT
Board the TGV for the two-hour high-speed train ride to France’s other gastronomic capital, Lyon, suggests Jackson. “You can spend the day exploring the fabulous marché PAUL BOCUSE and then treat yourself to a great meal, whether traditional, at the CAFÉ DES FÉDÉRATIONS (lesfedeslyon.com), or modern, at the bistro MAGALI ET MARTIN.” (011-33-4-72-00-88-001)
DRINK
At the gourmet tearoom CHEZ CHARLOTTE in the boutique Hotel des Academies et des Arts (hotel-des-academies.com), guests can sip elegant Le Palais des Thés teas while sampling a rainbow of colorful macarons -- think roses with fig and foie gras -- made by famed pastry chef Pierre Hermé. With bars on virtually every corner, “a number of wine bars, such as LA CREMERIE in St-Germain (la cremerie.fr), are specializing in organic wines,” says Jackson. For an insider’s hot spot, head to the speakeasy-style THE EXPERIMENTAL COCKTAIL CLUB on Rue Saint-Sauveur (myspace.com/experimentalcocktailclub) for a “Bee’s Kiss,” a creamy blend of Appleton VX Rum, cream, honey, and pepper.
Tokyo
 When he’s not whisking the likes of Anthony Bourdain to his favorite secret sushi haunts, Tokyo food guide Shinji Nohara jet-sets between many of the world’s culinary capitals. But his loyalties are clear. “In Tokyo, we get better baguettes and croissants than in Paris,” insists Nohara. “It’s not just me saying this -- French people living in Tokyo agree.” New York-based Iron Chef MASAHARU MORIMOTO explains: “In Tokyo, competition is fierce and people are always hungry for something new; but at the same time they quickly give up on anything that is not good. Restaurants must stay original and creative.”
EAT
“If Sushi Masa in New York can get three Michelin stars,” insists Nohara, “more than 100 sushi restaurants should qualify in Tokyo.” His top five: SUSHI SHOU in Yotsuya (011-81-3-3351- 6387), SUSHI MIYAHA in Hamamatsucho (011-81-3-3431-3880), SUSHI SAWADA (011-81-3-3571-4711) and GINZA HARUTAKA (011-81-3-3573-1144) in Ginza, and SUSHI ARAKI in Yoga (011-81-3-3705- 2256). If your palate turns more to beef, Nohara swears by ARAGAWA in Shinbashi (011-3-3438-1867), a steak kaiseki house ranked as one of the world’s most expensive restaurants, as well as DONS DE LA NATURE in Ginza (011-81-3-3563-4129), which serves Japanese black-haired cattle that are aged in a special locker. And those looking for familiar names will find that a vast number of celebrity chefs, including GORDON RAMSAY (gordonramsay.com/Tokyo), ALAIN DUCASSE (beige-tokyo.com), and DANNY MEYER (unionsquarecafe.com/ustokyodiary) have Tokyo restaurants in their global empires.
DRINK
If you are in need of a refreshing drink, AOYAMA’S BAR RAGE (011-81-3-5467-3977) has devoted itself to creating the perfect fruity cocktails. Morimoto’s picks lean towards restaurant bars and include TAMA, located across the street from Aoyama Gakuin University in Aoyama, Shibuya-ku (tama2007.jp), and TWO ROOMS in Omotesando, Shibuya-ku (tworooms.jp).
SHOP
Home cooks will love roaming KAPPABASHI STREET between Ueno and Asakusa in Taito-ku, also known as “Kitchen Town.” “It’s where chefs and restaurant owners frequent,” says Morimoto, “like Bowery Street in New York, but even more fun.” It’s lined with dozens of stores specializing in everything from dishes to utensils, and you can even find the quirky plastic and wax food samples used by many Japanese restaurants in their show windows.
VENTURE OUT
For an ocean-side jaunt just outside the Tokyo bustle, Morimoto suggests Kamakura City, located south of Tokyo along the Pacific Ocean. “Dine at BILLS (bills-jp.net) for breakfast or lunch and KAMAKURA IZUMI for dinner,” suggests Morimoto. “And for a perfect souvenir, purchase Hato Sabure, large pigeon-shaped cookies.”
London
Within the last few decades, London has transformed from a city where dining was something to suffer through to a culinary powerhouse. The arrival of Food Network celebrity chef JAMIE OLIVER, who possesses a delicious mix of boyish enthusiasm and expert kitchen skills, signaled to Americans that the U.K. had moved well beyond bangers and mash. “I think Britain used to have a bit of a bad reputation for food,” admits Oliver, “but these days there are so many fantastic chefs working in and around London that we’re the envy of the world.”
EAT
At the top of London’s food chain is chef Richard Corrigan’s restaurant CORRIGAN’S MAYFAIR at the Grosvenor House (www.corrigansmayfair.com), which serves rustic country-house cuisine. On Oliver’s list is THE RIVER CAFÉ (www.rivercafe.co.uk), where he trained years ago, and THEO RANDALL (theorandall.com). a humanitarian option: FIFTEEN LONDON (www.fifteen.net), Oliver’s culinary-focused foundation that offers youths at risk a life change by training as chefs.
DRINK
Londoners are flocking to the rooftop bar at Terence Conran’s new venture, the ALBION CAFÉ AND RESTAURANT (albioncaff.co.uk) at The Boundary (theboundary.co.uk/rooftop) in London’s trendy Shoreditch (note: While there dip into the nearby CALLOOH CALLAY BAR, calloohcallaybar.com). for quirky fun, the two-story BOB BOB RICARD (bobbobricard.com), inspired by the golden era of train travel, showcases a champagne trolley summoned by a button. “I love VINOTECA,” says Oliver, “which was introduced to me by a good mate, Matt Skinner, a few years ago” (vinoteca.co.uk).
VENTURE OUT
It’s hard to think of any culinary day trip more intriguing than THE FAT DUCK in Bray (fatduck.co.uk), just 30 miles west of London and run by chef Heston Blumenthal, “a smashing bloke,” says Oliver. This is molecular gastronomy on steroids. a few not-to-miss dishes: the nitro-scrambled egg and bacon ice cream and galette of rhubarb with neroli-scented yogurt. “On the other side of London,” says Oliver, “is the CRICKETERS (in Clavering, where I grew up), which is still owned and run by my dad” (thecricketers.co.uk). Set in a charming 16th-century English country inn, “it has great food, and if you’re lucky, Dad will come out of the kitchen and say hello,” Oliver notes.
SHOP
“If you’re in London on the weekend,” says Oliver, “get up early and go to BOROUGH MARKET (boroughmarket.org.uk). You don’t have to buy anything, although you probably will, but it’s worth just soaking up the atmosphere and great smells.” MARYLEBONE HIGH STREET, chock-full of boutiques, is another wonderful place to wander. In particular, Oliver recommends LA FROMAGERIE (lafromagerie.co.uk). “It’s owned by my good mate Patricia Michelson, who knows more about cheese than anyone I’ve ever met,” he says.
Madrid
 Over the last decade, Madrid has emerged as a major gastronomic city. “Madrid is a fantastic place to eat these days,” says famed Spanish chef JOSÉ ANDRÉS, who starred in the 26-part public television series Made in Spain and dominates the Washington, D.C., restaurant scene. “Even as recently as 15 years ago, Madrid was behind the times. But today, the city’s energy can be felt in the great restaurants and markets all over town.”
EAT
World-famous chefs and innovative fare are on the menu in Madrid. Catalonian chef Santi Santamaria works magic at SANTCELONI (www.restaurantesantceloni.com), which is located inside a cellar, tops out at just 50 guests, and is considered by many to be the city’s finest restaurant. Chef Ferran Adrià, of world-famous EL BULLI in Catalonia, regularly flies in to oversee his Madrid outpost, LA TERRAZA DEL CASINO (www.casinodemadrid.es), set in a grand 19th-century building (snag a terrace table for panoramic views). And the two-Michelin-star LA BROCHE (labroche.com) adds a dash of alchemy to the table, with such dishes as raw seafood and seawater gelée.
DRINK
A late-night town where most revelry begins at midnight, Madrid watering holes are ubiquitous. located on Calle de la Reina in the lively La Latina neighborhood, “DEL DIEGO is one of my favorite coctelerias in all of the city,” says Andrés (011-34-91-523-3106). Come summertime, Andrés suggests a visit to the beer gardens in the PLAZA DE SANTA ANA. “There’s nothing better than sitting outside on a warm night sipping a caña [an alcoholic drink made from sugar cane].”
SHOP
On Sunday visit EL RASTRO, Madrid’s massive flea market near the Plaza Mayor. “And don’t miss walking the very pijo [posh] BARRIO DE SALAMANCA,” says Andrés. It’s a neighborhood combo-platter of haute-couture outlets, private art galleries, and fine-dining restaurants. With everything from colanders to pizza pans, “EL ALAMBIQUE is one of my favorite kitchen stores in the world,” raves Andrés (alambique.com).
VENTURE OUT
King Phillip II’s former residence, the monastery of EL ESCORIAL, located in San Lorenzo de El Escorial in the Sierra de Guadarrama Mountains, is the ideal day trip from Madrid. “While you’re there,” says Andrés, “visit EL CHAROLES for a traditional cocido -- a stew of chickpeas, cabbage, pork, and chicken -- where each item is served individually as a multicourse feast” (011-34-91-890-5975).
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