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Urban Renewal
 Amid culturally filled and historically rich backdrops, old Europe is new again, luring travelers with chic bistros, fashionable accommodations, and unique shopping spots. BY LAURA VOGEL
Ask the most trend-conscious travelers in your circle: Odds are they’re obsessed with a quaint little bistro in Barcelona, a boutique hotel in Dublin, or a gallery in Milan. Old-world Europe hasn’t been this culturally ascendant since Ernest Hemingway lived and wrote in Paris in the ’20s — and in-the-know Americans are crossing the pond to find great food, wine, art, and fashion.
You get an electrifying feeling when you explore even the most frequently touristed neighborhoods of Europe — from Amsterdam to Zagreb — these days. “The reality is, after World War II, most of the continent invested in their people — in education, technology — instead of Cold War defenses, and now that’s bearing fruit,” says University of Wisconsin acquisitions editor Raphael Kadushin, a writer for Bon Appétit and editor of the travel-story compilation Wonderlands.
“If you look at a country like Ireland, where their economic revolution has been dubbed ‘The Celtic Tiger,’ it’s clear that a well-educated and financially healthy country equals a compelling destination,” Kadushin continues.
Here are five of the top destinations (and the best places to stay, dine, and shop in each) in Europe today.
SPANISH LESSONS
Star Spanish chef Ferran Adrià runs a cooking center in one of Europe’s premier destinations, the Mediterranean port town of Barcelona (Spain’s second-largest city). Renting a furnished apartment will give you a chance to live like a local (in a comfortable, well-decorated flat) and let you fill your fridge with terrific local wines, produce, and cheese.
The firm with the keys to the city, Destination- BCN, will find you an absolutely incredible one-bedroom flat in the heart of the El Born district for only 105 Euros (roughly $140) per night. On a recent trip, we arrived later than expected, and the friendly representative met us late at night with our keys and a hot tip about where we should dine — the mind-blowing Santa Maria, run by an acolyte of the aforementioned Adrià (the so-called “Mad Genius” gourmet is famous for experimenting with food down to the molecular level, to flavor-bursting effect). The next day, we hit the shops in the El Born district; it’s full of up-and-coming boutiques. Especially fashionable is Ici et Là, a home-design shop.
BRUSSELS: BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Though Brussels is the axis upon which modern Europe spins — in addition to serving as Belgium’s capital, it’s the home of NATO and the European Union — until quite recently it was a relatively sleepy town. Thus, Brussels has plenty of power, prestige, and luxury, and an equally deep wellspring of charm. Because of its global position, loads of money flows through Brussels; luxury and style are everywhere you look in this classic art nouveau city that speaks French, cooks Flemish, and has the effortless flair of a citizen of the world.
The sleek and chic Hotel Amigo is the place to see and be seen, and service is top-notch. (Hint: reserve the suite and balcony for a peerless view of the rooftops of the city at sunset.)
Dining in Brussels encompasses the humble-yet-heavenly meal of mussels, fries, and Belgian beer (with waffles for dessert, naturally) as well as more upscale options. For the latter, try the two-Michelin-starred Comme Chez Soi. Set in a glorious vintage art nouveau townhouse, this fifth-generation family-owned restaurant knows its French-Flemish cuisine, with an international twist. A recent menu listed sautéed lobster medallions with cockles and crispy vegetables with curry and mixed herbs. Regulars advise requesting a table in the chef’s kitchen, so you can have a front-row seat to all the action — and maybe a few extra off-the-menu delicacies delivered to your plate.
Last year, Belgium hosted its very first Designweek — to showcase the work of up-and-coming interiors and fashion designers, and it was a great bash. Chic creative types deluged the city and saw just how fashionable home-grown (as well as vintage) Brussels style is. To get a taste, visit the stunning new Hoet Design Store, which features furniture from mod designers and the cult Theo line of glasses.
For clothing, Belgian designer Kaat Tilley is celebrated for her romantic silhouettes and the cuts and fabrications that make her pieces unlike any other designers’ on earth. Or, pick up a lovely handbag from Delvaux. True, they cost a mint, but their quality makes them endure much longer than this season’s “It” bag — though their styling is as fresh as any must-have tote. And, well, if it’s good enough for the Queen of England (who recently indulged), it’s good enough for you.
But perhaps the most surprising thing about this modern/ancient city is its breadth of museums; there are 80 in the city alone. And it offers a bit of insight to the Flemish soul to note that they include both the Belgian Center for Comic Strip Art to the Gueuze (Beer) Museum as well as Mini Europe (yes, exactly as it sounds, it encompasses reproductions of all of Europe’s major structures — the Eiffel Tower to the Leaning Tower of Pisa — proving that the Bruxelloise have a well-developed sense of humor behind the genteel façade).
RAISING THE EIRE
Indeed, Ireland’s capital, Dublin, is currently experiencing a boom; the city has a lively, youthful energy, and there is a huge amount of homegrown fashion, inventive cuisine, and a coolness that is unexpected. Case in point: new boutique hotel The Dylan, featuring a whimsical décor by local interior design firm HKD (it’s roughly one part Wallpaper magazine, two parts Alice in Wonderland) and impeccable service. The Dylan features a sleek bar and restaurant, Still, that is a hangout for the city’s beautiful people including, on a recent night, Irish actor Colin Farrell.
Recently opened Dublin restaurant Fallon & Byrne sits atop a gourmet market (on the street level) and a cozy wine bar-cum-shop with hundreds of hand-selected bottles on offer (basement level). The tables are among the hardest to score in town. The food is deceptively simple — they specialize in seasonal-ingredient-driven, fresh-off-the-farm dishes — but the flavors are explosive. To top it off, the bistro-style room is minimal but gorgeously lit, warm, and comfortable.
Shopping in Dublin is another surprise: The number of outstanding, one-off boutiques rivals New York City’s SoHo. One of the best is Costume, in the terrific, pedestrian-only Grafton Street district. Owner Tracy Tucker personally selects the gorgeous, modern couture clothes and quirky jewelry, and her good taste shows in every piece.
MINT MILANO
Underestimated by travelers — its airport is a major European hub, and that’s all too many see of it — the Italian city of Milan is beyond chic these days. It has transcended its industrial past and is a global center for fashion, interior design, and art.
At this year’s five-day-long Salone Internazionale del Mobile, the reigning king of modern-furniture fairs, the world’s most cutting-edge designers, shelter-magazine editors, and creative artists were in town to ogle all the new products. The hottest ticket in town was to an evening garden party in the Hotel Diana Majestic, so named because there were Roman-era baths on the original site and a statue of the goddess Diana still stands in the lush backyard. It is an epic place for a bash. The hotel is known for its sexy mix of antique and modern furnishings, as well as a lobby that is entirely redecorated by a different up-and-coming designer every year.
No question, the hottest restaurant in town right now is Dolce & Gabbana Gold (yes, the fashion designing duo). All supermodel-diet preconceptions will be laid to rest with one bite, however. The food is fantastic and served by an extremely attractive, runway-worthy wait staff. The entire space is, unsurprisingly, gold: Midas-style mirrors, shiny leafed-leather menus, there’s even a touch of the color in every dish served. Traditional Milanese specialties like risotto and breathtakingly fresh mozzarella are served alongside the expected light salads and seasonal vegetables.
Of course, Italy — and especially Milan — is renowned for its style. The best place to get it is Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, the world’s first enclosed shopping mall. First designed in 1861, the famous structure is set directly between the Duomo (the Gothic cathedral) and the world’s finest opera house, Teatro alla Scala. Today, the glass-domed shopping area houses everything from Prada to Design Within Reach, and is a prime last stop for the perfect trip to the new Europe.
FRENCH TOAST
Paris has never gone out of style, mais oui, but it’s an old-world city that can always be relied upon for a transporting, exhilarating experience. The newest hotel in town, Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière, for one, is a prime reason to head to the City of Lights again. Just steps from the storied Champs Élysées and Paris’top designer shopping, this thoroughly modern yet utterly luxurious hotel features a glorious courtyard garden designed by Edouard François and sumptuous rooms and suites by Jacques Garcia. To recoup from all the city has to offer, the spa is a sanctuary that boasts one of the largest indoor pools in the city.
On every Parisian’s short list is Apicius, a Relais & Châteaux establishment and chef Jean-Pierre Vigato’s two-star Michelin restaurant, newly set in a former private mansion from the early 18th century. The space is stunning, and the food and wine live up to the formal setting. Luckily for those staying at the Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière, Apicius is just a short and romantic walk away. The gastronomic temple specializes in sophisticated (and traditional) dishes like foie gras, and oysters are prepared in an abundant array. For all of this decadence, you must plan ahead; book two months in advance to secure a reservation.
The current top place to shop is the Third Arrondisement, where, on the Rue du Temple and its side streets, galleries and homegrown cutting-edge boutiques mix and mingle. The prices and wares are especially awe-inspiring at L’Habilleur, a retailer of the previous season’s couture and designer goods at substantial discount. Fans of Martine Sitbon and Patrick Cox, et al., will have a field day.
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OLD WORLD EUROPE ADVISOR
What’s old is new again in old-world Europe. Here’s an insider’s guide to the best places to stay, dine, and shop.
DUBLIN
Stay: The Dylan, Eastmoreland Place, from $325 per night. 001-353-1-660-3000, www.dylan.ie
Dine: Fallon & Byrne, 11-17 Exchequer Street. 001-353-1-472-1010
Shop: Costume, 10/11 Castle Market. 001-353-1-679-4188
BARCELONA
Stay: DestinationBCN, apartments from $140 per night. 001-34-687-914-566, www.destinationbcn.com, info@destinationbcn.com
Dine: Santa Maria, Comerç 17. 001-34-93-315-12-27, www.santamaria.biz/sites/santamaria.biz/
Shop: Ici et Là, Plaça Santa Maria 2. 001-34-932-681-167, www.icietla.com
PARIS
Stay: Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière, 46 Avenue George V, from $925 per night. 001-33-1-40-69-60-00, www.fouquets-barriere.com
Dine: Apicius, 20 Rue d’Artois. 001-33-01-43-80-19-66, www.relaischateaux.com/en/search-book/hotel-restaurant/apicius
Shop: L’Habilleur, 44 Rue de Poitou. 001-33-1-48-87-77-12
BRUSSELS
Stay: Hotel Amigo, Rue de l’Amigo 1-3, rates start at $400 per night. 011-32-02-547-4747, www.hotelamigo.com
Dine: Comme Chez Soi, 23 place Rouppe. 001-32-02-512-29-21, www.commechezsoi.be
Shop: Hoet Design Store, 97 Antoine Dansaert. 001-32-02-511-0447
Kaat Tilley, Koningsgallerij 4. 001-32-02-514-07-63, www.kaattilley.com
Delvaux, Boulevard de Waterloo 27, 001-32-02-513-05-02; or Galerie de la Reine 31, 001-32-02-512-71-98, www.delvaux.com
MILAN
Stay: The Sheraton Diana Majestic, Viale Piave 42, from $250 per night. 001-39-02-205-81, www.starwoodhotels.com, www.sheraton.com/dianamajestic
Dine: Dolce and Gabbana Gold, Via Carlo Poerio 2/A. 001-39-02-75-777-71, www.dolcegabbanagold.it
Shop: The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, Piazza del Duomo
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